To celebrate 100 years of its iconic flagship boutique in Florence, Panerai returns to its roots with ‘Immersion’ – an evocative exhibition at the Museo Marino Marini and two ultra-focused Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni editions that pay homage to a rare 1960s prototype.

There is a quiet irony to Panerai. For a brand so completely tied to the expanse of the open ocean – and the murky depths beneath it – its beating heart has always belonged to a landlocked city famous for terracotta roofs and Renaissance art.

In 1926, Giovanni Panerai opened the doors to Orologeria Svizzera in Florence’s Piazza San Giovanni, directly facing the Baptistery of San Giovanni. It wasn’t just a shop; it was the city’s premier gateway to fine Swiss watchmaking culture, while its sibling enterprise, G.Panerai & Figlio, quietly crafted high-precision instruments for the Royal Italian Navy.

Centenaries in horology often invite loud self-congratulations, but Panerai’s 100th anniversary of its historic retail address feels refreshingly experiential. Taking over the crypt of Florence’s Museo Marino Marini from 10 to 19 September 2026, the brand has staged Immersion. It’s an interactive, multi-sensory journey designed to take visitors from the workbench of a 1920s Florentine craftsman down into the dark, pressurised abyss of deep-sea diving, before surfacing into polar ice fields and high-stakes ocean racing.

The Prototypes Born from Purpose

Alongside the immersive displays, the real talking points for collectors are two commemorative timepieces that lean heavily into Panerai’s mid-century military experimentalism: the Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734 and PAM01794.

Rather than raiding the obvious historical cupboard, Panerai reached into a private collection to authenticate an exceptionally rare 1960s prototype of the legendary reference 6152/1. That experimental piece featured two distinct quirks: a ghost-like, tone-on-tone “Panerai Firenze” signature on the dial, and a flat crown-protecting bridge cut with parallel inner grooves – originally designed so frogmen could operate the lever with thick diving gloves.

Both new 44mm models recreate this understated, pure aesthetic. You won’t find a date window, a running seconds hand, or any unnecessary dial clutter here – just hours, minutes, and crisp sandwich-dial legibility.

Platinumtech vs. Pure Steel

The two references cater to very different sensibilities:

• PAM01734 (Platinumtech): Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, this is the haute-horology showcase. Crafted from Panerai’s proprietary Platinumtech alloy – which is significantly harder and more scratch-resistant than traditional platinum – it pairs a striking green circular-brushed sandwich dial with warm, gold-effect pencil hands. It is also the first modern production watch to replicate the prototype’s grooved inner crown bridge. Fitted with a sapphire exhibition back, it offers 10 bar (100 metres) of water resistance and comes on a black Tuscan calfskin strap hot-stamped with the Florentine lily emblem.
• PAM01794 (Stainless Steel): Produced in a limited run of 1,000 pieces, this iteration leans directly into the brand’s tool-watch DNA. It features a polished stainless steel case framing an anthracite (light black) circular-brushed dial and heat-blued hands – a nod to historical anti-corrosion treatments used on naval instruments. True to its utilitarian roots, it boasts a solid closed caseback engraved with the façade of the historic Florence boutique and delivers a full 30 bar (300 metres) depth rating.

The Power of Eight Days

Under the hood of both models beats the hand-wound in-house Calibre P.5000. Operating at 21,600 vph with a robust, broad-plate design, its twin barrels deliver a massive 8-day (192-hour) power reserve.

It’s an intentional nod to the Angelus SF 240 movements Panerai deployed in the 1950s. Back then, eight days of autonomy wasn’t about convenience; it was about survival. By requiring divers to wind their watches only once a week, it dramatically reduced wear on the crown gaskets, preserving water resistance over prolonged underwater operations.

Presented in traditional dovetail-jointed mahogany boxes featuring metal plaques of the original shop front, both models come bundled with additional rubber straps and changing tools.

Whether you find yourself drawn to the emerald tones of the rare platinum edition or the pure, sea-ready steel of the PAM01794, Panerai’s return to Florence proves that even after a century, real adventure is still built on purpose.

Image credit: Panerai